Restaurant
Seven wine routes allow you to discover the wine regions of Cyprus. We took that of Pitsilia to meet Christos Vassiliades.
Latest edition : 23 May 2021
Don't expect to find the equivalent of the Alsace Wine Route! Here, there are not hundreds of domains and they are rather intimate! But these roads are an excellent excuse to leave the coast and its beaches to explore this country and discover its soul. We gladly stop in a café to taste the local specialties and chat with the villagers.
Having had the chance to taste the "Rapsodia" cuvée from the Ekfraseis estate, we wanted to meet the winemaker who knew how to surprise us with his wine!
Viticulture has a long tradition on the island, of which the most mythical wine is the “Commanderia”, a natural sweet wine. It takes its name from the French Templars who had delimited the island into commanderies. The tower of Kolossi bears witness to this period.
The cultivation of the vine was done on terraces carved into the side of the mountain. Hard work that was no longer profitable when four large cooperatives were producing wine in quantity. KEO, ETKO, SODAP and LOEL. Alongside these large cellars, “the big four”, young winegrowers set up shop to revive viticulture in the mountains.
Head to the Pitsilia region and the village of Chandria, the second highest village in Cyprus at 1275 meters. We almost missed the premises of the Ekfraseis Winery, installed in a simple house in this mountain village which still has around sixty inhabitants, mostly retirees.
This is where Christos Vassiliades chose to open his domain. “My grandfather sold his grapes to the cooperative. “I took over his small vineyard, half a hectare, and I rented land to plant vines there. Currently I have 2.5 hectares for a production of 30,000 bottles”, says Christos Vassiliades who spent several years in California to train in agriculture and obtain his master's degree in oenology.
After eight years, he made the choice to return in the hope of reviving his village. But it was hard, very hard. Everything was abandoned, nature had regained its rights on the terraces. “It is very difficult to find people to work here, far from the city…”.
With his 4x4, he takes us even higher to the summit of Madari in the Troodos massif, where his vineyards are located, at 1400 meters above sea level. The landscape is still just as magnificent, pine forests, a few cedars and then vines on open terraces. We feel like we're away from it all. Somewhere down there is the sea and the beaches. Here, there are vines, almond trees, fruit trees.
At this altitude, the harvest takes place well after the others. “There is always a small risk with bad weather: if I lose a harvest, it is too late to buy grapes elsewhere because everything has already been harvested. So sometimes I harvest a little earlier, so I have to make the right blends in the cellar. »
The climate, cold in winter (it is not uncommon for snow to cover the vineyard) and temperate in summer (maximum 30° C when the thermometer exceeds 40° C on the coast) is perfectly suited to native grape varieties such as Xinisteri .
“The grapes ripen gently until the end of October, beginning of November. The wine then acquires a beautiful natural acidity. The conditions are just as ideal for the Sauvignon Blanc which here acquires aromas of passion fruit, lime with fine mineral touches and a nice acidity.
Christos also grows old Cypriot grape varieties such as Mavro (which is also used to make Commanderia), Maratheftiko (Vamvacada) or Ofthalmo, but also Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and, for the past five years, Pinot Noir. "In Cyprus, it is only at this altitude that Pinot Noir can give a good result", believes the young winemaker, whose wines from his "Madari Hills" collection were distinguished at the last international wine competition. in Thessaloniki (Greece)!
In his small cellar (he is moving to more functional premises this year) he vinifies in small vats of different capacities (200 to 600 litres).
“Depending on the plot, the quantities can be quite small. The xinisteri also passes partially in an oak barrel which adds a slight vanilla note to the aromas of citrus fruits, jasmine, mango. The xinisteri is very pleasant as an aperitif. I take care not to make heavy wines, even the reds. »
To taste the excellent wines, and if you don't have time to travel, two addresses: the "French Depot" in Limassol and Paphos, run by a Frenchman. Christophe Chaillou offers a fine selection of French and Cypriot wines.
Ekfraseis Vassiliade Winery ,Chandria-Limassol,
tél: + 357 25 21 16 04, + 357 99 40 02 05
Ouvert de lundi à vendredi de 10h à 16h.
Le week-end uniquement sur rendez-vous.
Dégustation uniquement sur réservation au tél. + 357 99 40 02 05
ou par mail mariaekfraseiswinery@cytanet.com.cy
http://www.facebook.com/ekfraseiswinery
French Depot, 17 Spyrou Kyprianou, Limassol, tél. + 357 96 204181, ouvert du lundi au samedi de 9h à 20h
French Depot, 53, Neophytou Nikolaidi, Paphos, tél. +357 26 100555, ouvert du lundi au samedi de 9h à 22h