Restaurant
Michel Husser's great-grandfather received his Michelin star in 1937. Since then, the restaurant has always kept it. The chef has just released his first cookbook, retracing the beautiful history of this former coaching inn and revealing some of his finest recipes.
Latest edition : 26 April 2020
Pushing the door of the Deer in Marlenheim is a bit like coming home. In this former coaching inn in the heart of the Alsatian vineyard, which has preserved the beautiful Spindler marquetry, the Husser family has created a warm atmosphere, where the "tradition" side is rejuvenated with little more contemporary touches.
It is here that Michel Husser always surprises the taste buds of his guests. It was her great-grandfather, Paul Wagner, who left Strasbourg to settle in the countryside to win his star there in 1937. Since then, she has remained in the family.
Michel Husser, enthusiastic chef, and so accessible, “fell into the pot. From the age of 8, I helped in the kitchen, for me it was obvious! But first, he discovered the world. Six months at sea in the Navy, then Africa, South America, Mauritania, Ivory Coast...
In each country he visits, he tastes the local cuisine. “It's the best way to get to know the local culture, to discover new flavors. At Haeberlin, he goes deeper into classic French cuisine. In Paris, he worked with Alain Senederen, “the pope of modern cuisine, a true creator! For me, it was the trigger: you have to keep the classic while reinventing it. But for that, you have to know the basics! »
At 23, he returned to Marlenheim, having a very strong desire to create. His father trusts him and Michel Husser has the intelligence to move forward in small steps, so as not to brutally upset a working house. “I have always preserved my local side, I go to the market to find the best products, the best suppliers. »
But this local side has also played tricks on it. “At the time, in gourmet restaurants, we didn't serve sauerkraut, even though it's the traditional dish of our region! Michel Husser then decided to put it on his menu, but sauerkraut revisited in his own way with suckling pig, stuffed pig's trotter and a slice of smoked foie gras replaced the traditional garnish. “I only use Quintal cabbage produced by Weber in Krautergesheim, the real Alsace cabbage, cut with gold thread. »
A fine example of a traditional dish brought up to date. Except that, 25 years ago, no Alsatian wanted it. It took an article in Le Monde declaring it “the best sauerkraut in the world” for the locals to finally taste it! Today, the dish is one of the Deer classics. Just like the snail and carp milt skewer (in season, provided by Adrien Vonarb, the last professional fisherman on the Rhine), the wild pike fischschnecka, the great-grandfather's queen bites.
The menu also gives pride of place to game (provided by the hunters) or fish and other shellfish. But it often changes, as soon as the products change!
Two of his children have already joined Le Cerf, Clara and Mélina, taking charge of the accounts and the management of the hotel with welcoming rooms. As for Lucas, “he wants to become a cook, he has a lot of taste. He is currently doing his apprenticeship with Marc Wucher at the Parc in Obernai, after which he has to go to Paris, it is an essential step.
In the book he has just released, Michel Husser retraces the 85-year history of Le Cerf, its three chefs, its loyal collaborators and producers. Thirty recipes allow you to rediscover the “MH style”.
Le Cerf, 30, rue du General de Gaulle, 67520 Marlenheim, Tel
. 03 88 87 73 73; closed tuesday and wednesday
their website: www.lecerf.com
Their book: L'Artiste du terroir, the first book dedicated to the life of the Deer
editions of the Sign: 16.80€