Latest edition : 16 March 2014
Nestled at the bottom of a pine wood, hidden at the end of a path or proudly overlooking the valley from the top of a mountain like a fortress, the monasteries of Cyprus have a thousand faces.
Some of the churches and chapels are over a thousand years old and several are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The largest - and richest - of the monasteries is Kykkos in the Troodos mountain range. A beautiful road leads there, crossing the fertile valley of Marathassa famous for its cherries and its picturesque villages. Doing this route at the time of the cherry blossoms is a treat and one would almost forget the purpose of the trip. Which would be a shame because Kykkos is worth a visit even if these richly decorated walls do not emanate that serenity so typical that one feels in many other ancient monasteries.
But Kykkos has a place to hold. Isn't it here that the national hero, Archbishop Makarios, was a novice? His tomb, very close to the monastery, has become a national pilgrimage site.
Passing the porch, it almost feels like a tale of a thousand and one nights. Everything is golden mosaics, everything exudes opulence, wealth. From the church, the singing of the monks rises. It is only at the end of a certain time that, timidly, one dares to advance towards the iconostasis, to admire the icons. Among them, the most venerated of the faithful, the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary painted, according to legend, by Saint Luke. Too bad, the painting is covered with a silver leaf and encased in a tortoise shell and mother-of-pearl case. Although the monastery was plundered by the Turks in 1821, its small museum contains a magnificent collection of ecclesiastical relics and ornaments.
After all its splendor, head to the monastery of Agios Neophytes 9 km north of Pafos. Visiting a monastery after Kykkos? But what can we still discover that is exceptional? And yet! This particular place was founded around 1200 by the hermit Neophytes.
Before entering the enclosure housing the monastery, the church and a small museum, we head towards the mountain opposite. A staircase provides access to the cave where the hermit lived. Helped by his disciples, he would have, with his hands, dug a chapel in the rock, a small sanctuary dedicated to the Holy Cross, and a cell in which the tomb of the holy man was found. On entering the cave, one almost has the feeling of committing a sacrilege; The voices pass to a whisper before falling silent: every millimeter is covered with paints; the magnificent Byzantine frescoes follow the crevices of the rock. Rather than in front of an icon, however beautiful and miraculous it may be, it is here, in the privacy of this troglodyte hermitage, that we find ourselves making a wish; and that we feel it could be exhausted.
Opposite, at the monastery, some days after the service, the monks invite for cakes and a drink. Unexpected encounters also take place in the church where an old woman offers a piece of blessed bread, another a small branch to plant in the garden.
Another hermit, Saint Ignatius, founded the monastery of Chrysorrogiatissa in 112. It houses magnificent icons but also a very beautiful wine cellar from 1751. The wines of the monastery are often awarded.
To escape the incessant stream of tourists who are too curious, the monasteries have established opening hours.
That of Stavrovouni found another way out by preventing its access to women. This dissuades tour operators from taking the "Stavrovouni bus ” to the top of this rocky peak on which the building is perched. But its location is too good not to climb it, just for the view. But access is not easy. The first time I got there, when leaving the Lefkosia - Limassol motorway, I am surprised not to find any bus with its contingent of tourists. I am seriously worried when I find myself in the middle of a military base surrounded by barbed wire, I hesitate to roll between two rows of Cypriot soldiers at attention (should I salute?) Before arming me with courage and stop the car, being careful not to stall miserably, to ask for directions. "Yes ma'am, it is the road to Stavrovouni. ". So I continue to climb the narrow switchbacks, a small torture for every tourist who is not used to driving on the left! But the reward awaits me at the top: the view is magnificent and the monastery, seen up close, looks like a fortress. The climb was worth it.
On the way down, I prefer to avoid the battalion in full maneuver to stop at the small monastery of Agia Varvara. The monks seem to ignore visitors and, after a quick tour of the church, I can't wait to leave. That's when a monk catches up with me, almost forcing me to sit on a bench in the courtyard. Another brings me fresh water on a silver platter with fresh fruit from the orchard, candied oranges. The monks also make the most fragrant honey on the island. This is another of the unexpected encounters in those places of faith.
Another station on this route is the Convent of Agias Minas. Above all, do not go there during an "arrival o tourists" if you want to have a chance to be able to observe a sister painting an icon.
Why ? The nuns are annoyed by the dress of the tourists. Shorts, sunbathing tops and mini-skirts are to be prescribed, as is incessant chatter. Arriving alone or as a couple, there is a good chance of being able to chat with the sisters because they are just as curious as all Cypriots. The nun who is painting makes me sit down next to her, offers me candies and explains (in Greek!) the meticulous technique of her art. Another makes me taste the soujouko, a local sweet made from grape juice, honey and almonds, and a third one offers me a little lucky charm!
Going from monastery to monastery, from church to church, from chapel to chapel, is also a way of discovering Cyprus, of meeting its inhabitants. After accidentally attending an Orthodox baptism, the family invited me to the feast attended by the whole village. Foreigner ? A word that we do not know in Cyprus.
It is one of the highlights of Cyprus, the Orthodox Easter. The Orthodox religion is deeply rooted on the island even though only 15% of believers come to church every Sunday, 15% more two to three times a month. But all of them gather during the Easter celebrations to attend, at least in part, the long religious services, morning and evening. The churches are packed, loudspeakers broadcast the litanies in the public square where all the villagers meet.
Religious fervor responds to a spirit of celebration, young women and girls take out their most beautiful dresses (and shoes!), Merchants offer lots of sweets. As far as possible, each one returns to his village, his family.
The highlights of Holy Week begin with “Green Thursday”, Green Thursday (Holy Thursday): in the churches, it is the stage, with the ceremony of the washing of the feet. The priests keep the hosts of this Eucharist to distribute them to the sick and to the children throughout the year. In families, we only eat green foods, and therefore vegetables, to make Lent.
Good Friday is the passion of Christ. A large cross is carried in procession in front of the iconostasis. Outside, villagers are busy making the tomb flower: from simple flowers in the garden to sumptuous white orchids, anything is possible! The flowers symbolize the awakening of nature, the renewal therefore the hope of the resurrection. On Saturday, endless lines of faithful pass in front of the tomb guarded by soldiers. Processions turn around, roam the streets. All wait for midnight and the announcement of the resurrection of Christ.
In the families, we have already prepared Easter pastries as well as red painted eggs as a gift.
Sunday, after the family meal, all the villagers meet for games and entertainment. It's a day of celebration!
In 2013, we had the honor of being received by the Archbishop of Cyprus, Patriarch Chrysostomos, in Nicosia, during a visit to the Archiepiscopal Palace. In an interview, this man of faith but also of action, spoke of the political situation, the practice of faith and, of course, the economic and monetary crisis. He is not afraid of words.
Since 1975, the northern part of the Republic of Cyprus has been occupied by the Turkish army. What is the position of the Orthodox Church?
“The people must be united again. A peaceful coexistence is possible, we have experienced it in the past. The Church is working in this direction. Negotiations have been going on for years. But if we can envision a confederation, we absolutely cannot accept two different states. Unfortunately, currently there is no basis for discussion. "
What would be the condition for the negotiations to move forward?
“Let the Anatolian emigrants leave the island. "
But their children who were born and raised in Cyprus?
“They too, except of course if there are mixed marriages. But these are rare, even the new generations do not mix. The mentality of true Northern Cypriots and descendants of Turkish emigrants is not the same. "
What weight does the opinion of the Church have at the level of government?
“If our opinion is clear and well defined, it is listened to. "
So the role of the Orthodox Church in Cyprus is much more than just spiritual?
“We are working to bring the people to the Church, to God. In this objective we must also assume a social, cultural and political role. Finding solutions for the liberation of the occupied northern part is one of them. "
How to explain the fervor of the Cypriots?
“Throughout its history, the island has suffered a lot of foreign domination. Faith, the Church, was the only refuge. We cannot separate the spiritual from the economic and national aspect. "
The monetary crisis?
“Europe has disappointed us. We had hoped for support in our efforts to reunify our country, but no political solution has been put forward. And now, this currency crisis. When we joined the European Union, our country was cited as an example for the work accomplished and all of a sudden, we have the impression that we are being punished. Enough to ? To practice low rates? Other countries are doing it. Money laundering? Stop hypocrisy, it happens everywhere. We really feel like there is a plan behind all of this to destroy our economy. Perhaps to be able to recover our new natural resources ”.
