Valmeinier Two summits, hamlets, one resort

The road climbs through a landscape which, for lack of snow, seems almost austere in this early February. On one side, the Grand Galibier and the Aiguille Noire, on the other, Mont Thabor and the Roche Noire. There, in a narrow valley, at the foot of these mythical peaks, nestle the hamlets of Valmeinier. Thanks to the Grandes Drozes chairlift which crosses the valley, skiers benefit from an area with very varied slopes which bring together the resorts of Valmeinier and Valloire.

In good weather, the Aiguilles d'Arves, the peaks of the Vanoise and the Ecrins offer a breathtaking panorama. Narrow coombs, paths through the forest, a few large open slopes, snow parks and other freestyle areas allow everyone to have fun.
But when the wind gets involved, less experienced and less trained skiers will do better to avoid the "Galibier" part: because if the slopes are really superb at the top, the return towards the valley is a little less so: everything at the top, the wind blows the snow which then piles up below. It's hard to get through or over these piles of snow when you've been skiing all day and your thighs are starting to get tired! Red, blue or green, the color then means nothing. But, of course, we get there and, in the evening, we proudly retrace the day's journey on the piste map – to go back up there the next day, the pistes (at the top) are so beautiful!

The less experienced prefer to explore the network of tracks on the Thabor side, where the heart of the resort is also located.
If in January it is mainly young people who have fun on the slopes, in February / March, the residences of Valmeinier welcome a more family audience. Several nurseries and snow gardens take care of children from three years old to allow parents to make the most of the slopes.
A few "off-ski" activities allow you to vary winter pleasures: snowshoe walks (nice: at night, with a guide who acts as a storyteller), learning to drive a small team of dogs, speed riding, snake gliss.
On the other hand, it is better to love snow and nature because, in terms of shopping and other entertainment, there is not much (apart from a cinema, a bowling alley, sports equipment stores and souvenir shops).
The village, split into several hamlets, being at the end of the valley, is perfect for skiers looking for calm and large snow-covered spaces.

In the historic heart

The historic heart of Valmeinier is very small. During guided tours organized by the tourist office, we discover in particular its picturesque alley lined with stone houses with slate roofs.

The blue paint around the rare windows? "To better bring the light inside," explains the guide. Have you noticed that the facades are not at right angles but rounded? This was to allow the teams to pass more easily. And there, at the top, under the roof, dry the fagots to light the fire. » The guide retraces the harsh life of farmers and breeders, the rural exodus and then the return of young people with the development of tourism which began in 1972. Currently, the town has about 400 inhabitants year-round for a reception capacity of 11,000 beds.

Information

To taste

After skiing, board the free shuttle that connects the different hamlets to reach that of Combaz.

It is here, at the Mont Thabor farm, that Marie and Cyril produce excellent, often award-winning goat cheeses. Each year, they transform some 45,000 liters of milk produced by their herd of 64 goats. Among their different specialities, you absolutely have to taste the tomette (like a tome from Savoie but made with goat's milk), the Délice (soft paste like a Camembert), the Faisselle (to be tasted with a fruit coulis produced by a farmer friend) or the small semi-dry 12 days. You can watch the milking under the watchful eye of the big cat in the goat farm, caress the Saint Bernard, admire the couple of yaks.

Info and orders on:

www.la-ferme-du-mont-thabor.com