Le Guilvinec, a life at the rhythm of the tides

No need for a watch. In Guilvinec, we know when it is 4.30pm: a ballet of gulls in the sky announces the return of coastal trawlers to their home port.

This is the event of the day. About thirty of them set off every morning around 3 a.m. within a radius of 30 to 40 kilometers from the coast to catch fish in their trawl, a sort of funnel-shaped fishing net.

"They go out every day, from Monday to Friday, unlike the deep-sea trawls, which leave during a tide, that is to say 8 to 14 days", explains Marine of the City of Fishing, Haliotika.

The interpretation center is also the perfect site for learning everything, in a pleasant  way, about fishing. In Guilvinec, the leading French artisanal fishing port, all life revolves around fishing.

It is in Haliotika that we understand the difference between coastal and offshore fisherman, that we discover the different fishing techniques.

Visitors can even board a trawler, the Bara Breizh, to (virtually) share the life of the crew during a 14-day tide. The scenography is so realistic, with the identical reconstruction of the gangway, the on-board kitchen, the cabins and videos that you could almost feel the ground capsizing!

But Haliotika also tells the story of Guilvinec, its rise thanks to sardines, the terrible crisis following the virtual disappearance of this little fish.

Today, this port in Bigouden country is famous for crustaceans, in particular langoustine, la demoiselle de Guilvinec.

After the return of the trawlers, attending the auction ends the visit of Haliotika in style. The auction is also very silent, since the (descending) auctions are done via a computer dial. This is where the professionals come to stock up.

Langoustines, lobsters, spider crabs and crabs, cuttlefish, St. Peter's, red mullet, ray, conger… The guides present the peculiarities of different fish: such as monkfish, really not nice to look at but whith very delicate flesh.

In this fishing village, fish leads to everything. It was during the sardine crisis that the famous Bigoudene lace appeared! It was a nun of the Congregation of the Holy Spirit, who teaches families in need the "point of Ireland". Even the children then make lace to bail out the finances.

But do not look: you will not see women walking around with the famous headdresses even if the tradition has remained alive. Many young people are part of Celtic circles to learn Breton dances, music, the making of richly embroidered costumes and headdresses. To be able to admire the traditional costumes, one must attend one of the many religious or cultural events in which the Celtic circles participate.

In Le Guilvinec, everything brings you back to the sea. Two small family beaches invite you to enjoy the crystal-clear ocean water. At low tide, this is an opportunity to have fun in the uncovered rocks and go fishing on foot (ask the tourist office for regulations!).

Frédérique Treguier offers an unusual outing: the creator of the algae grocery store invites you to discover these plants with multiple virtues and nutritional qualities.

Brown or red algae, sea beans: in crystal-clear water, the different algae form real paintings.

Frédérique also offers seaweed cooking workshops that offer subtle aromas. Sea bean, for example, goes very well with vegetables, fish and you can even make it like a candy and coat with chocolate!

Several walking circuits allow you to discover the city, the port, the surroundings. 7 kilometers away, via the GR 34, is the Pointe de la Torche in Plomeur, a peninsula. On the promontory of this site, which has been classified as natural since 1965, there is a tumulus with half-buried dolmens. Human bones dating from the Neolithic (4000 years BC) have been found there. But the site had been inhabited since the Mesolithic, that is to say 10,000 to 5,000 years BC. ! The objects found during the excavations are on display at the Prehistoric Museum of Penmarc’h. But be careful, you don't venture out in bad weather!

This morning, the sea was very calm in Audierne bay, which Pointe de la Torche separates into two beaches. On the most protected beach, surf schools welcome children from the age of 5. It was the perfect day for stand-up paddle boarding. A peaceful image as the rushing waves of the Atlantic make it a renowned spot for board sports: surfing, bodyboarding, kitesurfing, windsurfing, standup paddle ... La Torche regularly welcomes surfers from all over Europe during major competitions.

The GR 34 circles Brittany over 2,000 km, from Mont St-Michel to St-Nazaire. In 2018, he was voted the favorite “GR” of the French. The old coastal patrol path - hence the name of the customs officers' path - also passes through Le Guilvinec and Saint-Guénolé. There, rocks with mysterious shapes sculpted by water and wind surprise. The air is invigorating and you never tire of the powerful spectacle of the waves crashing against the rocks. You can easily imagine the fury of the sea during inclement weather.

Walks in the fresh air whet the appetite and fish and seafood lovers will be delighted in the restaurants honor the catch of the day!

Le Guilvinec is the perfect home port for those looking for authenticity, the invigorating air of the ocean, far from the crowds.