Martinique, discovering the rural island

When Patrick Duchel leaves the metropolis to return "to the country", he has only one idea in mind: to promote Madinina , his beloved Martinique. He settled in the north, neglected by the big hotel chains and tourists in search of white sand. A region that is nevertheless authentic, rich in impressive landscapes and tasty encounters.

With about forty actors - restaurateurs, rental companies, craftsmen, transporters, musicians - he created the TakTak network :

"It's the name of a firefly," he explains. A little glow worm that highlights our territory from the spice merchant to the airline. Everyone is a little firefly. Together we form a sun. We want to share, welcome visitors from start to finish, show them all the natural and cultural riches of Martinique. We want to receive them as friends.”

In the network, there are no strikers and other travel troublemakers: "We don't want to scare people away," exclaims Joël, a restaurant owner in Morne-des-Esses. Let them let us work!” They're usually the southerners, the city people...

Lodge rental companies, restaurant owners, mountain and sea guides, chocolate makers and even musicians, all are keen to introduce “their” Martinique, their traditions and their know-how. Outings in a yole (it's sporty!), in a kayak to discover the mangroves, on foot to attack Mount Pelé, hikes on the Caravelle peninsula or in pineapple plantations, visits of rum distilleries, the actors of the TakTak network are there to welcome, accompany, tell, and involve fellow travellers. As you will have understood, they consider you as passing friends, not as simple tourists.

Patrick Duchel, who is also a hiking guide, is a veritable well of science on the history, fauna and flora of his country. In Morne-des-Esses, he created Les z'amandines , a set of seven small cabins (unpretentious but with the essentials such as a bathroom and kitchenette) in his lush Creole garden, which he shares with holidaymakers: pineapple freshly picked and fresh guava juice for breakfast, a little taste of heaven. An ideal site for hikers and visitors who only return in the evening.

Encounter

Joël Palladino manages the family restaurant in Morne-des-Esses, Le Colibri Parfumé, with his twin sisters Marie-José, Marie-Joseph and his niece Tuli. It has earned a good reputation for its tasty local cuisine.

Among his specialties: calalou with crab (a delicious soup whose secret he jealously guards), avocado with crab, suckling pig accompanied by local vegetables, stuffed pigeon in the nest, the bush of the z'habitants ( crayfish) and the famous coconut chicken that he served to François Mitterrand in 1974. For dessert, the coconut flan à la Maman Palladino (we gladly have some more).
Installed in the soberly decorated room, lulled by the rhythm of old Creole songs, you can enjoy the view of the ocean while sipping a ti-punch flavored with surettes (candied fruit that replaces sugar).
As everything is cooked fresh, it is better to allow a little time.

Le Colibri Parfumé is part of the Taktak network, as is the restaurant Le point de vue, which overlooks Anse Charpentier. Monique and Ghislaine offer excellent Creole cuisine, simple and family, served on a terrace with a magnificent view. And a smile too!

At aperitif time, in the cafes and restaurants in the north of the island, the bottle of rum remains on the table. Everyone mixes their ti-punch to their taste, more or less full-bodied, more or less generous.