Getaway in the Mâconnais

Our long weekend trip begins at Macon station where we were to pick up our rental car. An authentic London taxi in this case. For fun, to discover the region a little differently. And there, big surprise: a venerable and impressive Packard from 1939 turned all heads. A little big as a rental car, right?

"I thought it would be easier for me to pick you up, since I'm going to spend the afternoon with you," greets Jean-Claude Lequy, who offers these rentals like no other.

Our car is waiting for us in the Café de la Gare car park in Charnay-lès-Mâcon. And what a car! A 1948 MG cabriolet. But before we could travel the roads of the Mâconnais vineyards aboard this exceptional car, we climbed aboard the famous English taxi for our first scheduled excursion: a bike tour. Needless to say, the he strange hitch, an English taxi and a bicycle trailer, does not go unnoticed!

At a place called La Grange du Bois, we pick up our bikes. After admiring the view of the rock of Solutré, we set off following the road book provided by Jean-Claude. Of the three routes, we opted for the simplest of only ten kilometers, only going downhill.

Prehistory Museum

First stop at the prehistory museum at the foot of the Solutré rock. An accessible and fun museography allows you to understand the rich history of this site made famous by François Mitterrand who, every Whit Monday, climbed to the top of the rock. The visit shows the evolution of man and we discover that there was in this chronology a Solutrean who lived in France, Spain and Portugal. A very entertaining little film twists the neck of the myth of horse hunting. But shh, we won't say more so as not to spoil the surprise effect! The museum is definitely worth a visit.

The archaeological garden outside leaves us a little perplexed: it is supposed to highlight the vegetation of the site and some archaeological finds. We should perhaps have taken an audio-guide.... After a quick visit to the Maison de Grand Site, an exhibition of which highlights the landscape more than the history, we take our bikes back.

Pouilly-Fuisse

But barely a few meters further, in the village of Solutré Pouilly, the Atrium challenges us to discover Pouilly-Fuissé, these famous white wines.

The Atrium is the perfect place to taste the wines of the six villages, which allows you to discover all the differences: The winegrowers "rent" a locker there to present their production, the tasting of the "Collection" allows you to do better his choice: Depending on the terroir, this single-varietal Chardonnay is very dry and mineral or very floral.
But we shouldn't hang around too long, we have to return the bikes before 6 p.m. at the Charnay-lès-Mâcon Tourist Office opposite the Café de la Gare.

The descent continues through the vineyards and villages with the evocative names Pouilly, Fuissé and the houses built in beautiful stones of the country. A treat!

By car !

After returning the bikes, Jean-Claude gives us some instructions for driving our incredible rental car.

Right-hand drive, of course, but as we've driven in English cars before, it's not too much of a problem. The sound of the engine turns heads again. As for us, it's a bit like a Christmas present! But this beautiful toy obviously has its quirks and does not drive as easily as our minivans with power steering! It is also very long and negotiating the super narrow roundabouts in the villages is a bit difficult. Otherwise, it's a treat and the discovery of these beautiful vineyards is even tastier!
Needless to say that we can't park it on the planned location of our bed and breakfast but as it is so beautiful, the owners allow us to park it in the courtyard.

At Marie's house

The paradise of Mary well deserves its name.

In the outbuildings of this traditional Mâconnaise dwelling, Marie and Laurent have fitted out guest rooms with just enough decoration so as not to spoil the beautiful atmosphere that reigns there. The large kitchen is constantly accessible, as is the billiard room and the wine cellar where it is good to meet up for a drink. But in good weather, the large swimming pool and the vast meadows at the back invite you to relax. From there, hiking trails criss-cross the vineyard. This morning, we "lend our" MG to Jean-Claude for a wedding. In exchange, he brought us a .... Deudeuche! Here we are "downgraded" but the fun is there! Especially since it is convertible and ultimately it turns heads as much as the MG, probably evoking fond memories!

castle life

At noon, we have lunch at the Château d'Igé, a place that seems to be out of time. An authentic medieval castle, not a fantasy of a wealthy Lyonnais silk merchant or winemaker. In 1973, the castle was transformed into a hotel-restaurant and remained in the same family until this summer.

It is the former – and current – ​​chef of the restaurant who took it over with two associates. A way to guarantee continuity while paving the way for a smooth evolution. The flavors of his cuisine can be tasted in a very historic setting, the fireplace room, the red living room... A venerable spiral staircase with steps worn by passages over the centuries, leads to the bedrooms with their delicious "old" (but with modern bathrooms!) with walls covered with floral fabric. Even more romantic, the room in the tower at the end of the park. What to take for the Sleeping Beauty. The entire park also invites contemplative rest. The place is perfect for resting.
During lunch on the terrace, we let ourselves be won over by the tranquility, the murmur of water spat out by the “crocodile” imagined by the site gardener.
It was hard to get back on the road, but we planned to visit the small vine museum at the Château de la Greffière estate in La Roche-Vineuse and, above all, to taste their wines.

Estate Chateau de la Clerk

Of the 44 hectares of the estate, 20 are located around the castle. To avoid the risk of losing everything in the event of hailstorms, the Greuzard family bought plots in other villages. The main grape variety is Chardonnay.

A little aligoté to make aligoté burgundy, gamay for red Macon and pinot noir for burgundy complete the vineyard. 80% of the harvest is done by machine (except for the crémant which requires manual harvesting). Part of the estate's production is vinified in oak barrels. Xavier, the son of Isabelle and Vincent, came to work with his parents, with a wine-oenology BTS in his pocket and after having spent six months in New Zealand.

Under his leadership, the Greuzards, who work in sustainable cultivation, launched their prestige cuvées: small plots selected by Xavier, very ripe grapes harvested. As we still have a little way to go, we only taste a “Les Ronzettes” cuvée, with slightly toasted aromas, a balanced and very slightly woody mouthfeel. Isabelle recommends accompanying it with poultry in cream or pan-fried scallops.

Mason

Before returning to Marie's Paradise, we decide to take a trip to Macon. After the tranquility of the vineyard, the city does not really appeal to us.

However, Louis shows us some striking buildings: the old and the new cathedral, the Saint-Pierre church, the only wooden house, the Lamartine museum, the old Hôtel-Dieu, some pretty traboules, the Laurent bridge and the banks of the Saône. Too bad that by moving the car park from the surface to the underground, the thinkers of urban planning did not divert the heavy traffic along the quays of the Saône (by a tunnel for example?). The national road which passes cuts the city and its restaurants from the quays with its very flowery romantic garden and its quotations from Lamartine on the ground.

inn of paradise

It is with great pleasure that we find the small roads of the vineyard returning to Marie in Saint-Amour. Despite the heat of this beautiful Saturday in September (it's nicer than in summer!) the water in the swimming pool is a bit cold (this is not the opinion of guests from the "north") but it is invigorating. Here we are ready for a new tasty encounter at the Auberge du paradis, just a few steps from our guest room. From one paradise to another, a whole program!

Meeting chefs is always a discovery. The discovery of a man (or a woman) passionate and different each time. All have in common the love of good products and respect for the guests. But there the commonalities end! As much as Olivier Pons from the Château d'Igé knows how to delight with rather classic French cuisine (as one expects in a château), as much Cyril LAUGIER seduces with his sense of alchemy and his love for spices. All served in a resolutely quirky setting that hides mischievously behind the innocent facade of a small village inn! The hostel rooms are just as surprising. Cyril maneuvers alone in the kitchen (which explains why we don't eat à la carte there but take the menu which changes every month), his wife Valérie and Jean-Christophe ensure the service in the dining room. Cyril's sometimes surprising tasty creations and combinations have finally been recognized with a Michelin star. Why after only so many years? Maybe because of the whole character of the chef?

The rock of Solutré

And here is the last day of our little weekend in the Mâconnais. In the morning, we find Hervé at the foot of the Solutré rock.

This heritage guide has the gift of explaining the geology, fauna and flora of this site in a simple and fun way. The formation of the rocks of Solutré, Vergisson and Mont Brouilly (which has lost its rocky part), the boxwood beds, the flowers, the dry stone walls, the almost wild horses of the site... listening with great attention and pleasure. Another advantage of going on a guided tour with Hervé: He takes the (small!) groups along a private path, on part of the old walkway of the fortified castle of Solutré. And yes, few people seem to know it: on this rock where François Mitterrand came every year on Pentecost Monday, once stood a fortified castle. Alas, on the orders of Philippe le Bon in 1434, it was completely dismantled.

Berze fortified castle

But we will not leave the Mâconnais without having visited at least one of its castles. A few kilometers from Milly-Lamartine (the childhood village of Alphonse de Lamartine), proudly stands the fortified castle of Berzé, the largest fortress in southern Burgundy, one of the best preserved in Burgundy;

Even if Count Jean de Milly admits that in winter the family takes refuge in the rooms above the garages since it is impossible to heat the large rooms of the castle. As the château is still inhabited by the de Milly family, the official visit only passes through the gardens (the trimmed yews in the main courtyard are impressive) and the exterior of the château. But the story is interesting, and the view of the surrounding vineyards is magnificent!

And here we are, at the end of the afternoon we find “civilization” and the TGV train. Finished the getaway in MG. At the exit, Jean-Claude was also back with "our" MG to allow us a somewhat magical last lap..