Bavaria - The Glass Route

A flute of champagne for 40 liters of bubbles? A beer mug that can't be lifted?
A huge Easter egg? An oversized bulb?

Or, much more practical, the trophy awarded to each stage winner of the Tour de France?
All these unique crystal objects are made in the depths of Bavaria, in a region in the heart of vast forests embracing Bohemia and Bavaria. This is the land of "glass makers," as these artisans like to call themselves. Alas, the vast days when there were thousands of them doing this noble profession are over.

But here in the Arber region - one of the massif's famous peaks - they are still at work. It is in fact in Zwiesel that we find one of the few schools of the trade and which welcomes students from all over the world. "But to be a glass blower, after three years of training at school, you have to work ten more years before you can claim to really know the trade," explains Alois Adam, head of manufacturing at Joska, whose production is sold worldwide.
Stars like Catherine Deneuve, Arnold Schwarzenegger and great sporting winners have already received trophies stamped "Joska-Bodenmais".

Moreover, it is probably the production of trophies that allowed the crystal factory to grow and assert its place in the market. "This is indeed our specialty," says Alois Adam. Even if only one needs to be produced for a particular event, we do. Our reputation is at stake. For a normal size trophy, it takes around 15 hours, from blowing to engraving. Everything must be done by hand. "

From the small workshop to the glass paradise

By settling as a glassblower in Bodenmais in 1960, Josef Kagerbauer certainly did not imagine that one day Joska would one day become the "glassmaking paradise", attracting a million visitors every year!

If his small workshop in the heart of the small city still exists (but reserved for production), visitors are expected outside the city, on a real site dedicated to leisure. There is, of course, the huge store with everything glassmakers can do, from lovely and fragile glasses to trophies, chandeliers and countless decorative items.

A workshop is reserved for glassblowing demonstrations. Each visitor can also blow a "ball" to prick into a flowerpot, which provides the plant with water for a few days. It is also in this workshop that we discover the materials necessary for the production of glass, the various molds cut from wood.

In other workshops, such as printmaking, it is possible to observe artisans at work. "Of our 200 employees, 85 work in the production, glassmaker, blower, engraver, painter ... Each piece is carefully examined before leaving the company", says Alois Adam. Considering the quantity of products sold all over the world, Joska subtracts part of the production. This also allows the advantageous prices of certain items.

So that children do not get bored, a large playground is dedicated to them as well as activities such as the hunt for semi-precious stones.
The garden is decorated with many accessories. Glass, of course. And a traditional Bavarian "Biergarten" offers many culinary specialties from the region.
Some unhappy people blame Joska for this commercial development tending towards a “Disneyland of glass”. Visitors, especially families, are delighted!

Video extract of a glass plate decoration

The glass route

Other crystal works are still active in this region proud of a centuries-old tradition in crystal production. They can be found, along with galleries and museums that preserve truly fragile treasures, along the “Glasstrasse”, the glass route that runs from Waldsassen to Passau. A perfect opportunity to discover this fascinating material.

Frauenau -When glass becomes art

The village of Frauenau is an essential stopover on the Route du Verre. This is where the Eisch family sublimates glass for over 300 years. Their workshop adjoins the gardens and the glass museum.

The descendants of a long line of glass craftsmen, opened their workshop 70 years ago to ennoble glass which represents fantasy, color, technical know-how, art. During a guided tour, visitors learn all about the manufacturing process, the history of the family and also discover some unusual glass objects such as the organ or the trumpet.

Poetry in glass

While in the shop and gallery you can find the complete collection as well as unique pieces from the "poetry in glass" series, there are no large quantities.
At the Eisch, the craftsmen only work to order.

So there are no mass-produced products there and everything is produced exclusively on site. Customers therefore have to wait two to three months. Among them, the English court which ordered, for example, 150 candle holders with the royal emblem. Or Arab princes, rich Russians and Chinese, luxury hotels. Each piece is hand blown, cut, engraved and painted. At Eisch, crystal is still this so precious material.

Glass gardens

Leaving the Eisch studio, the wonder continues as you walk towards the (very beautiful) museum.

In the park, the works of international artists show all the possibilities of expression through glass. 21 pieces bear witness to their creative spirit and technical know-how.

Glass through the ages

Open the doors to the Glass Museum without hesitation: in a fun and educational way, it leads through the history of glass.

In a very pleasant and accessible staging, we travel through history, discover simple or luxurious achievements before entering the industrialization era. From historic glasses to contemporary creations, the whole world of glass is open to visitors.
A whole department is dedicated to the life of glassmakers, to living testimonies. Better to plan a little time!

Video extract of a small piece of music with a glass trumpet!

Theresienthal

This small, very small, glass museum lovingly called "little castle" by the members of the association who take care of it, is worth a visit.

The particular and somewhat muted atmosphere that reigns there is perfect for the magnificent pieces on display there. The Theresienthal crystal factory, created on the initiative of King Louis I of Bavaria and Queen Theresia, produced precious glasses there for the royal court of Bavaria, for Napoleon III, for the tsars… We can see the pieces created for king Louis II from Bavaria who, in ruby color and gold bark, sat enthroned in the castle of Neuschwanstein.
After this journey through the splendours of the 19th century, a few steps lead to the manufacture. Here too, you can observe the glassblowers at work.

Zwiesel - Steam beer

If you are thirsty after the visits, take a rest in Zwiesel where Elisabeth Pfeffer proudly carries on the family tradition which is.... beer brewing. As everywhere in Bavaria, the region is rich in small craft breweries.

In Zwiesel, the aficionado is intrigued by the signs promoting "Dampfbier", steam beer!  A visit - and a tasting! - are needed!

As you push open the door, it's a surprise. We meet in a small brewery that looks like a museum. Many ancient objects recall the beginnings of production. Elisabeth and Mark Pfeffer brew very tasty beers and explain the origin of the "Dampfbier": "At the turn of the century, wheat and hops were rare and expensive raw materials. Wolfgang Pfeffer then brewed beer only with barley malt. The top fermentation in the wooden tubs was so fast that large bubbles formed which burst. People believed that beer gave off steam! "

 

 

 

But let's continue our trip to Bavaria, and visit the National Park