Latest edition : 17 August 2014
What an odd place to set up a hotel: under the impressive arches of a railway viaduct and in the wide bend of a national road a few kilometers from the pretty town of Freiburg im Breisgau. But as soon as you leave the national road to enter this set of several buildings, you are calm and under the spell. Under the spell of regional tradition, history and warm welcome.
The Sternen is not just a hotel. It is also a glassmaker's workshop, a shop specializing in authentic cuckoo clocks, a restaurant, a chapel .... Among the buildings that are grouped around the central courtyard, there is the "House of Goethe". The poet was very fond of this beautiful region of the Black Forest and he stopped twice at the Sternen. Mendelsohn was another famous guest at the Sternen where he stopped over on his honeymoon.
But the site's most famous personality is Marie-Antoinette. In 1770, she passed through the “Höllental”, the valley of hell, to reach Strasbourg and France where she would become the wife of Louis XVI. It is moreover to her that we owe the road through the valley: In order to be able to pass, it financed the construction of a motorable path where there was only one path. It had to be that for this formidable convoy led by 450 horses! A fresco on the wall of the main building recalls this epic!
The former post office quickly became a hotel. The Sternen emblem also recalls all the services that could be found there. The star: like the Star of Bethlehem, it indicates an inn to travelers. The circles in the octagon: the wheels of the coaches that could be re-circled. There are 4 chalices: drinks are served to travelers from all over the world.
Vacationers and overnight guests are always welcome. In the restaurant with its beautiful woodwork, you can taste traditional cuisine made with regional products (the Sternen is part of the “cuisine of the natural park” network). The dishes are prepared with finesse and great taste. Hikers passing through appreciate the “domain tapas”, a board featuring cold meats, cheese and chutneys. Families (or groups of friends) choose the “Familienplatte”. On this family platter there is a generous assortment of steaks, cutlets, vegetables, pasta, fries and salads, all for 49 euros!
While the unmissable Black Forest cake is obviously on the menu, try the Black Forest-style waffles. Delicious !
For sleeping, you have the choice: historic in the Maison de Goethe, traditional in the main building, contemporary above the glassworks.
It is an ideal base for exploring the region: Freiburg and Lake Titisee are nearby, as are the highest peak of the Black Forest, the Feldberg, or yet another famous lake in the region, the Schluchsee. To get around, you can leave the car in the parking lot and take the collective taxi. A free service with the "Hochschwarzwaldkarte" card offered from two nights and which offers many freebies.
The “Ravennaschlucht” (Ravenna Gorge) hiking trail also starts from the Sternen. After a nice climb, including quite steep stairs), we arrive in the village of Hinterzarten which overlooks the Schluchsee lake. We return quietly by the “Löffeltal”, the valley of the spoons (at the time, we forged spoons) . Allow about three hours of walking.
Don't feel like driving for miles? Then we take the little walk to the little church of Breitnau, the chapel of Saint Oswald. Dating from 1148, it is older than Strasbourg Cathedral.
In the watchmaking workshop we learn all about the famous “cuckoo” clocks - even how this famous song is obtained! The clocks offered for sale come from a nearby workshop where artisans carve them with impressive attention to detail. We never tire of observing the little characters who come to life every hour!
It is also time to go out: every half hour, the giant clock against the facade of the workshop makes couples dance to a traditional song.
Another tradition has remained alive at the Sternen: that of the glassmaker. At the time, there were many glassmakers in the Black Forest, where wood and water existed in abundance. A glass artist and a glassblower share their know-how by working in front of visitors.
