Latest edition : 12 September 2018
The particularity of Chalkida: an arm of the sea separates it into two parts, one on the mainland, the other on the island.
It is one of the “big” cities of the island Evia or Euboea. Along the pretty promenade, which borders the sea, countless trendy bars invite you to relax. At the end of the day, it is all the youth of the city who seem to find their way there.
Pushing a little further, towards the children's playground above the sea, some more typical taverns invite to taste the local specialties.
This is also one of the images I retain of the island of Evia: the emergence of a contemporary lifestyle at the heart of rich traditions. Evia is an authentic island, which in no way distorts its image to adapt it to the tastes of tourists. Its many treasures, natural and cultural, are generously revealed to curious tourists.
Chalkida is no exception to this rule. Because the city has much more to offer than a nice walk. To more easily discover its little hidden treasures, nothing like a guided tour. With a little luck, it is Dr Konstantinos D. Politis who will accompany you, French-speaking archaeologist who despairs that all these treasures remain hidden! While "Agamemnon passed that way, gathering his fleet in that cove over there before directing them to Troy!" "
But before showing us one or the other historical monument, he makes us aware of the “crazy seawaters”, the crazy waters.
In front of the Lucy hotel, under the old small movable bridge (an almost world novelty when it was built in 1962) and which spans the Euripe canal, one can observe a natural phenomenon: the tide which changes direction every day. the six hours. As the passage is narrow, the water seems to dance frantically creating a continual eddy, making the sea look like a large river.
Due to the constant movement, the water is very clean, ideal condition for seafood which can be enjoyed just a few steps away ...
Aristotle, a famous child of Chalkida, could not explain this phenomenon…
Along the promenade, a few hotels recall the auspicious days when the great of this world came to celebrate. The Lucy Hotel with its 92 rooms all facing the seafront, was among the best known. It is currently managed by Chelmis Miltiades, president of the grouping of hoteliers on the island. Her mother Lucy is always present with her smile.
It was his grandfather who built the establishment where Kennedy and other great people stayed. He even built a cinema there, now transformed into a parking lot: with the arrival of television, it was no longer profitable. Among the employees, some even speak a little French, like the smiling Zoé.
At the end of the promenade, the Red House, which today serves as a cultural center, and the house of statues in a neoclassical style.
Following our guide through the maze of streets in the historic center, we pass a few other buildings in neoclassical style (King Otto of Bavaria passed by), one of which houses a small archaeological museum.
Ottoman wooden houses, unfortunately in poor condition, deserve to be restored. Which is unlikely, too bad.
In a wing of the medieval castle, a small folklore museum gives an insight into the traditions of the island.
Continuing the walk, three religious buildings testify to the multicultural origin of the inhabitants of the city.
The Emir Zadé Mosque dates back to the end of the 15th century. It overlooks the place of the war memorial.
The synagogue recalls the presence of Jews during the more than millennial history of Chalkida. Under the leadership of Bishop Grigorios, Christians saved many Jews during World War II.
The Aghia Paraskevi Orthodox Church is a beautiful architectural mosaic. The 8th century Byzantine basilica ("from the same period as Notre-Dame de Paris cathedral", exclaims our guide) has Venetian and then Gothic elements. The wooden ceilings from 1414 are identical to those in the Ducal Palace in Venice.
After admiring the icons and other marble facings,
it's time to have a little refreshment at 1922, a very nice little bistro just in front of the church.
On the other side of the old bridge, on the mainland, the Karababs fortress watches over the bay. It was built by the Ottomans to protect both the island and the mainland in a decidedly Italian design.
The view amply rewards the effort of the climb (but it can also be reached by car): the town of Chalkida, the sea, the Avylos bay where the source of fresh water is located which prompted Agamemnon to stop there. before heading for the Trojan War.
The museum inside is worth the visit. Some pieces of the old city tell about the life of yesteryear, panels show the configuration of the site. We discover astonishing "hats" from Turkish tombs,
the evolution of writing and a constitution written by Rigas Velestinlis based on the French Revolution.
But the most precious piece is this magnificent bas-relief of Alexander the Great which has been exhibited in the most prestigious museums around the world.
Come on, after this dive into history, it's time to take a dip in the turquoise waters that sparkle below. Rather than staying on the municipal beach, we take the car again to reach the beaches at Alikos, very popular with Athenians. To be avoided on weekends.
LODGE
Hotel Lucy, by the sea. Possibility of transfer to and from Athens airport.
Organization of numerous excursions with guided tour: Athens, Delphi, etc.
www.lucy-hotel.gr
ORGANIZE
Yalos Tours, a French-speaking agency specializing in Greece, offers tailor-made trips.
www.yalostours.gr
CAR RENTAL, directly at the airport or on the island: www.joyriderental.gr
Thanks to the group of hoteliers from Evia and Skyros chaired by Chelmis Miltiades for their welcome.