In the Alentejo region, near the Spanish border in the very east of the country, Elvas is one of Portugal's hidden treasures. Its particuliarity ? It is the largest fortified city in Europe and is recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage.
In this arid region once coveted by Spanish invaders, the fortified sites stand out on the hills. The most impressive are those of Elvas: the first two forts date from the Muslim era before Elvas was integrated into the Portuguese kingdom becoming a “fortress city”. An important status as evidenced by several belts of walls and the magnificent fort of Our Lady of the Graça, a perfect work of military architecture from the 18th century and whose fortifications form a vast star.
The fort erected on Monte da Graça is also known as fort La Lippe. During the Seven Years' War (1756-1763), Marshal Lippe was commissioned by King Joseph I of Portugal to reorganize the Portuguese army and modernize the fort. Count Wilhelm of Schaumburg-Lippe made a copy of it from his native fortress Wilhelmstein.
It is better to plan enough time to explore the maze of corridors with loopholes, underground passages, vast galleries and the governor's house, an unusual sight in such a place!
Murals told soldiers how to behave (washing, proper attire, writing to family, etc.).
Although the fort has had no defensive vocation for a long time, it served as a political prison until 1998! From the top of these fortifications, the 360° view is magnificent. Opposite, to the south of Elvas, is the fort of Saint Lucia which now houses a military museum.
After this excursion into the long military history, the struggles to preserve the independence of the country, it is time to get lost in the cobbled streets of the heart of Elvas.
From the parking lot of the castle - which is an integral part of the fortifications and works listed as World Heritage by UNESCO - we set off to discover the Manueline pillory and the arch of Santa Clara, push the doors of the old churches sheltering magnificent tiles from the 17th century, painted azulejos and other marvels…
Another monument of Elvas is listed as a World Heritage Site: the Amoreira Aqueduct. With its 7.99 kilometers and 843 arches, it is probably the largest aqueduct in the Iberian Peninsula.
History is omnipresent in Elvas, you can even taste it! Just push the door of the small museum and its workshop of the transformation of the Elvas plums.
It is the only workshop still working according to the original recipe from the 16th century. Round, with soft, shiny skin and a yellow-green color, greengage plums are transformed into candied fruits. In the craft workshop, and depending on the season, you can attend the different stages presented in the small museum which tells the story of these fruits and their importance for the small town.
Plums from Elvas are also very coveted: Agatha Christie talks about them in one of her novels and plums are not lacking on Christmas tables in England.
Returning to the parking lot of the castle, we are intrigued by strange sounds escaping from a small workshop: this is where Luis Pedras makes “roncas”,
surprising African musical instruments. With a little luck, he will play for you!
INFO
https://www.visitalentejo.pt/fr
Heritage Guide: Margarida Ribeiro
Sleep:
Santa-Luzia-Hotel. The charm of history, with traditional hand-painted furniture, old-fashioned earthenware in the bathrooms. The restaurant gives pride of place to regional gastronomy and is renowned for the "Bacalhau ourado".
https://www.slhotel-elvas.pt/en-gb/
