Much less known, and above all less visited, than the Algarve coastline, its neighboring region, the Alentejo seaside in southwestern Portugal, is a little treasure: long, wild and windswept beaches or sheltered sand dunes, beautiful sandy coves, cliffs torn apart by the waves of the Atlantic Ocean, peaceful fishing villages...
During a hike on the path of the fishermen along the Vicentina coast, a big surprise awaits us. In the cliffs of Cape Sardao nest … white storks! It is probably the only place in the world where storks settle in the cliffs instead of electricity poles, church steeples or sloping roofs! At the end of May, the tiny new born storks were still well sheltered in solid nests that resist the sometimes violent winds. It was a fascinating show and one that really delayed us in our program!
We stop at Vila Nova de Milfontes, located at the mouth of the Mira, sheltered from the sometimes fierce winds and waves of the Atlantic Ocean.
It is a seaside resort very popular with the Portuguese, but here there are no large tourist buildings or streets lined with souvenir shops. When holidaymakers leave at the end of summer, peaceful life resumes its course in the old town with its narrow streets of white houses highlighted by a few touches of color.
Above the beach, the fort of Sao Clemente was built at the end of the 16th century to protect the city from pirates from North Africa. On the small Place Barbaca in front of the fort, a monument created by Soares Branoc, recalls the feat of Portuguese airmen: in April 1924 they took off for the first flight between Portugal and Macao.
At the end of the road that leads to the lighthouse, it is not so much the lighthouse that we come to see as the surprising statue of the Archangel, the work of the sculptor Aureliano de Aguiar. More than 3 meters high and made of recycled iron, the archangel launches an ecological call to preserve the planet degraded by the hand of man. An impressive art work.
Outside the town, the fishing port, sheltered by an impressive seawall, provides fish and seafood to restaurants and fishmongers. It's scenic but not touristy. Each fisherman has his shelter where they make their nets, cages and hooks.
Before returning to the busy life of Lisbon some 170 km away, we make a final stop in Porto Covo. Less for its (beautiful) beaches than for its … seafood. According to connoisseurs, we eat the best in the country!
We stop at Arte e Sal where the boss Carlos Barros offers us before the fish of the day, limpets, clams and percebes or barnacles. To eat these shellfish, we had to ask the waiter for advice, we had no idea how to shell it or which part to eat! Washed down with excellent regional wines, we really enjoyed ourselves!
Sleep :
Monte do Zambujeiro, Vila Nova de Milfontes. In the heart of the countryside, above the Mira River. A few kilometers from the city center, the beaches, the Regional Natural Park, the Vicentine coast. A perfect base for exploring the region and relaxing in peace. Several small villas on a 70 hectare estate with olive trees and cork oaks. Magnificent view from the swimming pool and the terrace where breakfast is served.
https://www.montedozambujeiro.com/en/
Having dinner:
Tasca do Celso in Vila Nova de Milfontes. Excellent gastronomic restaurant, renowned for its seafood and fish, revisited and refined Portuguese and Mediterranean cuisine. Wide choice of excellent wines. Beautiful decoration, petrified wood tables, counter on barrels, stools on cork oak wood. Young and smiling staff.
Rua dos Aviadores, Vila Nova de Milfontes ; tél.+351 283 996 75
Lunch :
Arte e Sal à la sortie de Porto Covo. Simple but a hearty welcome. The waiters look for the name of the different fishes on their phone to help us choose. Perfect wine pairing. Great view at the ocean.
Ana e Carlos Barros, Praia de Morgavel, S. Torpes – Sines
Tél. +351 269 869 125
