Murcia, the gourmet heart of Spain

Far from the popular tourist routes, the province of Murcia can only be discovered by car from Alicante airport on the Costa Calida. Let's head to the eponymous capital of the region for a gourmet appetizer at the Polea restaurant. Alberto Pardo and his companion Pepa Villa celebrate cooking there in the spirit of "eat local, think global". To prepare his tasty dishes, Alberto gets supplies directly from small local and regional producers who work with respect for the land. 

 

 

 

The city, rich in a long tradition of market gardening, is also nicknamed the orchard of Europe. A hydraulic network built by the Muslims allowed the city and the whole region to take advantage of the waters of the Segura river. A river that has not only brought benefits: in 1651, a deadly flood claimed a thousand victims. A little nod to history: Marcel Proust cites this event in his novel "Un amour de Swann"...

A rich architectural and cultural heritage deserves to stay for a few days. Especially in spring during the great popular festivals such as the bando de la Huerta, the burial of the sardine and other festivals that surround the pilgrimage in honor of the virgin of Fuensanta, the patron saint of the city.

 

 

 

The heart of Murcia beats in the old town, restaurants and bars bring life to the squares surrounded by palaces, churches and museums.

 

 

 

We stop at Café Lab to taste the Asiatico, made with coffee, condensed milk, liqueur 43, brandy, lemon zest and a little cinnamon. This typical drink of Cartagena which gave heart to the work of peasants, fishermen and sailors, dates from the beginning of the 20th century. Sailors from Asia then ordered coffee with brandy and condensed milk.

 

 

 

To taste the wines of the region, head to La Diligente, Tienda de Vinos. Andrés and Irene offer wine and cheese tastings there.

For authentic souvenirs, head to the Centra de Artesania, the Artisanal Center, which brings together the works of local artisans and artists: decoration, ceramics, clothing, jewelry, food….

 

 

 

On the outskirts of the city, we visit one of the gardens of El Huerticano, a group of  gardeners and farmers who have returned to the traditional production of the region. A real organic culture of seasonal products, regional varieties.

Pacco Orenes is a fervent defender of this way to produce. The professor of agro-ecology and fine cook, cultivates with passion the family land which he irrigates with canals, as was done in the time of the Muslims. While he produces quality fruits, vegetables and herbs for chefs and individuals, training farmers in traditional techniques is close to his heart. During guided tours, with Liliane, he offers a taste of his production. The chefs of the gourmet restaurants who advocate locavore cuisine are happy to supply themselves from these farmers who want to restore their letters of nobility to a real agriculture that respects nature.

 

 

 

There are more and more of them in the region of Murcia, such as in La Junquera, where young people practice regenerative agriculture, to bring life to land rendered sterile by years of intensive exploitation. Helped by many people who come to train, to do research, Alfonso Chico de Guzman gives life to nearly 1000 hectares of arid land. https://www.lajunquera.com/

But it's time to continue our journey to reach the Sierra Espuna (https://www.spain.info/fr/nature/parc-regional-sierra-espuna/) passing throug the fertile plain of the Segura river with orchards as fas as the eye can see: peech trees, lemon trees, orange trees,

to arrive at the Hosperida Bajo el Cejo, a lovely inn run by Andres who produces wine, olives and vegetables..https://bajoelcejo.com/
The small charming hotel located in a mountain village, is surrounded by crops: olive trees, vegetable gardens and a small vineyard that had to be fenced off to protect the bunches of grapes from the voracious appetite of wild boars! We have tasted this rare wine at Alberto in Murcia: lo que dejo el jabali – what the wild boar left behind.

 

 

 

The place is conducive to quiet relaxation. On site, the cuisine is tasty, prepared by Francesca, a young chef who arrived in this little haven of peace by love.

Not far from there, in the heart of the mountain with its many mountain bike routes, is the kingdom of Celtiberico goats, whose milk is excellent for cheese production. Miguel Angel Canovas, shepherd and cheese maker, explains how it is made.

 

 

 

Here, at altitude, the land becomes more arid. Almond trees dominate the landscape, as do the vines. In mid-September, we had the chance to attend the harvest. To better understand, have a look at the short video.

The tractor deploys a kind of upside-down umbrella, the trees are shaken and the almonds are collected in this "umbrella" before being unloaded into a trailer.

 

 

 

On the Bullas wine route, in the Aceniche Valley, we meet Pepa at the Bodega Balcona, a vineyard, surrounded by gentle hills. Her family transformed the land bought by her grandmother. “At the time, we practiced livestock farming and we grew cereals. There was only a small vine for family consumption,” tells Pepa. Since then, the family has cultivated 40 ha of organic vines. The Syrah and Sempernillo vines growing in the arid valley benefit from watering, but not the Merlot which grows at an altitude of 900 m: there is underground water.

 

 

 

36 ha are cultivated for the cooperative cellar or other bodegas. “We can only vinify 4 ha,” explains Pepa. Our bodega is too small to do more and as we are located in a protected perimeter, we cannot enlarge the buildings. »

 

 

 

In Bullas, a charming little wine-growing town, the small wine museum gives a glimpse of the old methods of winemaking.

 

 

 

A little further, change of landscape with the rice fields of Calasparra: four rivers and two dams make it possible to irrigate them for the cultivation of PDO Calasparro rice, an authentic organic rice grown in rice fields where no phytosanitary product is used. But it is a small production, between 2500 and 3500 tons per year.

 

 

 

In the Campo Virgen de la Esperanza cooperative, you can follow the preparation of rice. And buy it. It is excellent ! Bompa IGP Calasparra rice, one of the best in Spain, is perfect for paella.

 

 

 

After doing some (gentle) rafting  on the Segura river,

we take the road again to visit the sanctuary of the Virgen de la Esperanza, the Virgin of Hope, the patron saint of Calasparra. This 17th century monastery is quite remarkable as it is carved into the stone of a mountain on the bank of the Segura River. Originally, it was a simple cave. Over the centuries, the site was expanded. During major renovations from 1948 to 1968, only local stone was used for neo-Gothic style architecture.

In Caravaca de la Cruz, it is not a miraculous virgin that attracts pilgrims, but a miraculous cross that resembles the Orthodox cross. In Caravaca de la Cruz, the 5th holy city in the world (after Jerusalem, Rome, Santo Toribio and Santiago de Compostela), a relic of the Holy Cross is venerated. A shard kept in a cross-shaped reliquary with a double arm. The Basilica of Vera Cruz is located within the walls of the castle of Caravac.

 

 

 

From the top of the hill on which the basilica is located, the view of the city is magnificent.

 

 

 

The streets lined with churches, convents, palaces... The facades tell of its rich history, memories of the presence of Iberians, Romans and Muslims.

 

 

 

Throughout the year, many festivals, religious or secular, punctuate the life of the town. Among the most spectacular is the feast of wine horses, the Caballos del Vino, included in 2020 on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It takes place every year from May 1 to 3 during the festivities in honor of the Holy Cross. After parades of richly adorned horses, a race takes them up to the castle.

 

 

 

Is it because the region of Murcia does not know mass tourism or is it because its inhabitants are simply fine gourmets? Regardless, the gourmet traveler finds happiness everywhere, whether in a simple inn, a tapas bar or a gourmet restaurant. Olives, almonds, smoked tuna Grilled octopus, rice with fish stock, pork cheek croquettes, marinated anchovies, pork pluma, beans with chorizo and bacon, there is something for everyone.
Some rare times it is better not to really know what you are eating like corteza, fried pork rind or ox tail croquettes…

 Buen provecho !